Im thinking about buying these uros from a guy but Im concerned that the female is too thin she is the solid black one in the back what do you guys think? He says they are both between 3-4 years old.
Hi, The reason the female is so thin, she is probably being bullied by the dominant male and not getting her fair share of food and is getting very stressed. Uro's should never be housed together they are solitary animals, and only brought together for breeding. There is a serious risk of one or both being injured if they fight. You really need 2 tanks 48x24x24 one for each, to be able to get the correct heat gradient. Basking spot needs to be 120/135F with the ambient temps of upper 90's at warm end and lower 80's at cool end and a night drop (with no lights) to 70F, no lower. This can only be achieved with the larger terraniums. They require high UVB, at least a 10%. I use 2x 12% tubes in mine, but mine is an egyptian and requires more UVB. I think those 2 in pic look like Mali's. Their diet should consist of endives, escarole, dandilion greens (not from yard due to pesticides etc) mustard greens and squash as their staple diet, with things like collard greens, finch seed and hibicus flowers on a rotational basis. If you feel you cant provide the above, especially the tanks, then I would recommend you consider getting something else. Uro's are not really beginners lizards, due to the relatively high set-up costs, I'm not trying to put you off getting them, just pointing out what is required to keep them successfully and in good health. One last point uro's are not a lizard to be handled, only taking out for cage cleaning and checking, they get very stressed if handled too often.
Thanks for the reply! I've done months of research on mali uros and their needs,I've read every care sheet that I could find and I've spoke with several breeders including Doug at Deer fern farms.I have two setups that are 4x2x2 with uv and basking lights, I'll be using white proso millet as substrate and I have two hides in each enclosure.I've kept leopard geckos and beared dragons for the past few years so I wouldn't consider myself a beginner in the reptile world Im just new to the uros . Do you think I should pass on her or do you think she'll be ok?
Sounds like you have done your homework, I would say go ahead. With a seperate viv and some TLC I'm sure the little one will do well, you may like to add a few wax worms into diet. I know they are fattening but may help her put a bit of weight on, just dont over do it. Having looked at the larger picture, she doesn't look in bad health, just smaller. Let us know how you get on.
I agree with Bruno - if you are willing to put in the extra time and care for her, then go ahead. I would get a fecal sample checked as soon as you get her. provide a varied diet of veggies, seeds, beans etc...make sure you have great UVB and basking temps, and properly designed hides (uros are picky about their hides) and she should improve! Good luck.
Thanks for the help guys! I think I'll be able to get her weight up without a problem,after talking with the current owner I don't think she has enough variety in her diet so that could also be part of the reason why she's on the thinner side. Do any of you have pics of your hides posted on this site,mine are made from two cinder blocks with a piece of tile over the blocks..
The key with Uros is to use low, secure hides - they like hides that are just tall enough that they are almost touching their backs when they stand up, they also shouldnt be too wide - they like to feel secure and "wedged in". I use tiles epoxied to paving stones or stones/tiles epoxied on top of a small stack of broken tiles - depending on the size of the Uros. The best way is to stack a few of these on top of eachother - which makes it easier to get the high (130+) basking temp that they require on top - while allowing them to choose the temps they prefer. You cant see the hide very well in this pic - tomorrow when his lights are on i will take pics of his hides specifically...
Hi This is my viv, it's a bit hard to see, but the "hole" at bottom of slate pile is a cave which he sleeps in. It's made from heavy slate rock that actually sits on floor, none of it is glued but solid enough for him not to move it, then the substrate is added and he can dig into it. The cave is at left of pic under the slate basking rocks. I have a heatmat stuck on the back of viv and the slate rests against it and keeps the temps up to around 80F even on a cold night. There is another hide, he is actually sitting on top of it, it's a hide made from resin and is just sunk into sub. It's very light so no risk of injury if it moves, when he gets the urge to dig, which is often ...lol Here's the Link
After seeing the hides you guys posted I decided I would build some new ones they are 18"L x 9"W x3" H , does that sound about right for a mali? The adhesive I used had a very strong smell I hope it dosen't emit fumes once it gets hot.
Is that the interior size, if so, it really needs to be a little smaller, they should be slightly shorter than the length of mali, so he has to curl-up inside, this makes them feel more secure. They also like the roof touching their backs as well. I think the longest part of my cave is 6 inches, the uro is 10 inches, mine has several hides but prefers this tight cave. What adhesive have you used, I think you should leave it to "cure" for at least 2 weeks before you put it in viv, may be stand it on top of a radiator or close to heat and see if it still gives fumes off. If you are not sure then dont use, better safe than sorry. A good adhesive to use is "aquarium sealant" this is known to be safe. Make sure both surfaces are free from dirt and dust, then a good thick layer of it, press together and leave for 2 weeks to totally cure, it's then safe to use.
Here's a link to the adhesive I used it still has a strong smell but it hasn't dried completely,the deminsion I posted are the outside deminsion. Link
