Finally, last one...

Discussion in 'Ball Pythons' started by ssscales, Sep 7, 2009.

  1. ssscales

    ssscales Member

    Messages:
    586
    The last one for the year, done!...
    In 55-60 days, these should be pipping and we finally get some rest, then start all over again a few months later.. :)

    Pastel and Mojave X Pinstripe
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    Seven eggs total, will we have Lemon Blasts or Jigsaws??
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  2. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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    5,483
     
  3. lil_shy_aries

    lil_shy_aries New Member

    Messages:
    81
    hello Sssales
    your snakes are absolutly beautiful. as always I'm amazed at each one.
    congrats on the baby eggs.
    But what is a jigsaw??? do you have a pic. havent heard of this one yet?
    and can you tell me please
    your down in the warrrrrmmmm climate. so you can fake light and daylight hours to get more eggs laid.
    I'm way up here in the cold. In the winter I am the popcicle between two frozen lakes here in MI> lol.
    am I not correct they lay in spring and in fall ? or if I am wrong would someone correct me.
    thanks
    shy
     
  4. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  5. ssscales

    ssscales Member

    Messages:
    586
    Hi Kelly, thanks, a Jigsaw is a Mojave/Pinstripe in the same snake.
    Here is a pic of one: http://www.vpi.com/brag/jigsaw_ball_python

    For me/use here in FL, cold temps are rarely a problem, but overheating is since we can and do get temps in the mid/upper 90's. We try and maintain a ambient (room) temp of 82F and for this we use AC to maintain 82F. In all our cages and racks we maintain a 80-82F ambient and a hot spot of 90-95-98F depending on the snakes, stages, ages, etc, etc. Some racks are given a hot spot of 95-98F, some 90-95F, always with an ambient of 80-82F. This thermo gradient allows the snakes to move as needed from hot to cool to digest well and it works best for us, some breeders just keep a whole room at 85-88-89F and that works for them.

    On the light cycles, this is easily achieved with light timers. We have the room lights on a timer and we set and adjust our day/night time hours as needed. They come on and shut off as we set them, during the off season we set it to 14hrs of daylight and then as breeding season approaches we lower it to 12-10-8hrs of daylight, together with lower temps. As the daylight hours are reduced, so are the night time temps and hot spots. We allow the room to drop from a steady 80-82F to 75-76F at night.

    In your case, you would need heating to maintain a steady ambient of 80-82F and a hot spot of 90-92F. Hot spots are easily achieved with Flexwatt for belly heat. Flexwatt is cheap, cost $2-$3 per foot and you simply wire it up and hook it to a thermostat to control the temps. Set it according to your rack/cage set up and maintain a 90-92F hot spot above substrate. I set mine in some cases to 95-96F in order to achieve 90-92F above the substrate.
     

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