OK, I could dutifully go through all 130 plus pages of posts on the heating of enclosures, but I chose the easy way of just creating a new post. I want to plan out improvements for my snake's enclosure and would like input on the pros and cons of each means of heating. There seems to be a good variety of different heat sources. I am nearly overwhelmed by the variety of light/heat bulbs. I currently have an infrared heat lamp for my BP. It seems to work fine, but I recently read that a heat pad causes fewer shedding problems - but if I use a heat pad, how do I best protect the the furniture underneath the enclosure? (His home is on furniture because he is in the warmest room in the house for the winter).What supports are best to raise the enclosure high enough above the supporting surface so that the heat does no harm? Regarding the bulbs, what are the pluses and minuses for each type? If it helps, my main interest is in pythons and boas, both requiring good heat.
The UTH (Under Tank Heater) I bought for one of my enclosures just sticks to the bottom of the tank and came with four little round rubber feet to give it clearance, about a 1/4". Direct plugin I can't get this thing to go above 84 degrees on the inside of the glass so I supplement the ambient temp with a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) in the enclosure to help out. Here is an interesting read about lights/color effects on reptiles ---> Link I have been experimenting with light, color, and duration of cycles to see what results I get and so far I have noted a definite sleep pattern change in the two reptiles I am comparing by eliminating colored lights and going with CHE. Take a look at that article in the link above, It's a good read.
I have picked up a UTH any number of times - and then put it back, not being able to be sure those little rubber feet would be sufficient to keep anything the container was placed on from being damaged by heat. I took the box at its word that the Zoo Med infrared heat lamp does not interfere with the snake'sleeping patterns - and I do like the red light at night so I can see his nocturnal wanderings. I thought bout the ceramic heater - but then did like the night light. I will check out the link you suggested, but now I wonder how much sleep a reptile needs. With kids, it is easier to tell when they are not getting enough sleep or have interrupted sleep - do snakes get grumpy without sufficient sleep? What are your goals in your experimentation? What have the sleep pattern changes been? I beleive my goals are a happy and healthy reptile, and an attractive habitat that is easier to maintain . I think the habitat would be more attractive without a light or CHE on top - besides, having something on top of the screen makes it awkward to get into the container to change water, tidy up or take the guy out for a visit. This is all why I have asking questions and mulling over the possibilities.
OK read the information on the link. The red lights go tomorrow. I will do the heat pad and hope for the best and add a CHE if necessary. Do you think the brand or size of the UTH makes it so that you aren't getting the temp you want without adding the CHE? I don't suppose that Consumer Reports has done anything with UTHs... Thanks for your help and guidance!
Still having problems. With the heat pad and a CHE, I cannot get the temp up to the desired 90 degrees - only about 80. Snake is not nearly so active, of course. I had no problems with the infrared light I had been using. Local pet stores are not stocking very many CHEs apparently (I have tried a number of them within a fifty mile radius), so I had to settle for a 100 watt - the best I could find. I ordered a 250 watt CHE online, but it is very slow in coming.The question is, will that solve the problem? Yes, I live in a colder climate and no, I cannot afford to keep the heat all that high - generally about 64 degrees. Will I have to go back to an infrared light? Once it is safe to ship, I am expecting a new addition to my snake family - I would love to have my systems all set before that arrival. Thanks for any suggestions.
the 250 watt CHE will help boost the temps if the 100watt one isn't cutting it. Maybe I missed something but... how big of a tank are you trying to heat?
I had him in a 37 gallon tank, but moved him to a 20 gallon to make it easier to heat. He is a BP so he doesn't mind the samller quarters. I had also moved him to the warmest room in the house. I had switched after getting information on the boards regarding the use of infrared interferring with herp sleep cycles.
Always use a thermostat or a rheostat to control a heat pad, cord, or heat tape. Measure the temperature on the surface of the cage floor, above the heat, as that is what your snake will come into contact with. It should be 90F. If the air in the cage is not warm enough, perhaps the cage has inadequate insulation. Glass tanks are always problematic. Cover most of the top with plastic wrap--just leave an inch for ventilation. This will both help keep humidity in, and help keep heat in. If that doesn't do the trick, try insulating 3 side of the cage with foam board or mylar heat blanket. Heat lamps are indeed a problem, because ball pythons require 60% humidity, and most people keep them far too dry--that causes bad sheds, and likely other problems as well, due to chronic low level dehydration.
All of that is done just as you wrote except for the plastic wrap and foam board bits. Humidity is usually around 60% or higher these days. I think I am going to go back to using the infrared (even if it does affect his sleep patterns) until the 350 watt lamp I ordered arrives. I ordered from a well known reptile supply place and they have been far too slow in getting the order to me (have taken the money though). I think it is time to call to check.
Hm that's so odd... with a UTH right on the bottom of my 20gal long tank I have the surface temp (repti carpet as substrate) at an steady 87 degrees F.... nothing covering the top of the cage except the dome for the basking spot light I have for my Uri.... What substrate are you using? I'm just surprised that with a UTH and a CHE you're not getting the temps you need... are you sure your UTH is working?
Right now my buddy is quite happy snuggling around my shoulders underneath my fleece jacket. I am surprised as well that I have not got enough heat. With the UTH, I was initially sure that the 100 Watt CHE would do the trick - if even that was needed. In his home I have a substrate of about 1/2 inch coconut matting. I was cautious about the heat from the UTH being too much for him with just the bottom glass of the container between him and the heat. I have been told that the 250 watt CHE will arrive tomorrow. Still, I am now wondering about the accuracy of the digital thermometer (one of the usual brands). I have the sensor right where snake usually lies, but then I have noticed that he often moves away from that area, so he cannot be too very cold - and could possibly be too warm!
That's just so odd.... Do you have another thermometer you could switch out with that one or place next to it and see if they are reading the same? Maybe even a cheap one found at your local drug store put in the tank for a bit and turned on to see if it matches your thermometer you already have...
I have been thinking to do that - and can you believe that I have not found one around the house and will have to purchase one!? I may try the outdoor sensor of the indoor - outdoor wall thermometer I do have. I will let you know when I figure it out. The larger CHE did arrive today and I will be seeing what happens with that (waiting for the old one to cool down so I can make the switch). These guys can be as tricky as kids!
