ANOLE EGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Discussion in 'Anoles' started by Dancing_with_dragons, Aug 10, 2005.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. Dancing_with_dragons Embryo

    Message Count:
    17
    HELP!!! well, my friend found two small eggs in her back yard, she gave one to me. we suspect they are anole eggs since that is the common lizard around here. I dont know how to take care of it! im currantly putting it in a box with soil under my jackson chameleons full spectrum light. is that okey? also, i read that the embryo can drown if the egg is turned upside down, is that true? if so, im in trouble!!!! i dont know what position the egg was in when it was laid! i want the egg to hatch, so if you can, tell me anything you know about taking care of anole eggs!!! please!!!!! :shock: [/u]
    Isabel newman likes this.
  2. Freaky_pete Embryo

    Message Count:
    1,066
    wouldnt of been leaving them in the wild be the best for them?
  3. Dancing_with_dragons Embryo

    Message Count:
    17
    ya, well she had already messed with them, it was too late. the least i could do is try to save em. have any ideas?
  4. Surf_Slave Embryo

    Message Count:
    58
    try putting a flashlight up to it to see if they are even fertile
  5. Dancing_with_dragons Embryo

    Message Count:
    17
    if it is fertile, what am i supposed to see?
  6. Surf_Slave Embryo

    Message Count:
    58
    a pink blob, maybe a dark spot, it will be obvious, you can either tell there is something in there or not.
  7. Dancing_with_dragons Embryo

    Message Count:
    17
    theres a dark blotch towards one side of the egg
  8. Surf_Slave Embryo

    Message Count:
    58
    well then, how is the blotch resting? do u have the side with the blotch down? How much of the egg does the blotch take up?
  9. Dancing_with_dragons Embryo

    Message Count:
    17
    the blotch takes up like a side of the egg, i have it resting with the blotch up, not down, is that good or bad? it looks like the embryo is laying towards one of the sides, and i can sort of make out the shape of a body, but maybe not. what should i do now?
  10. Dancing_with_dragons Embryo

    Message Count:
    17
    sorrry for being so desperate, its just that i reallt wanna save this poor baby. so i need info A.S.A.P.!!!
  11. garybingham Embryo

    Message Count:
    650
    Dancing_with_dragons, post this in the anole forum you will get a better responce
  12. Spot Embryo

    Message Count:
    6,048
    I'm going to assume these are anole eggs and move it to the anole forum
  13. Dancing_with_dragons Embryo

    Message Count:
    17
    okey, thanks for posting this in the anole forum, hopefully, ill get some help
  14. Dancing_with_dragons Embryo

    Message Count:
    17
    hey! i need help still! i dont know how to take care of this egg!!!!
  15. boydk65 Embryo

    Message Count:
    2
    I saw this posted on here.... someone else posted it so here is a copy. noy my work, someone elses but very informative....Breeding, sexing and incubating anoles

    In this thread, I will be discussing the aspects of anole breeding, talk about how to determine gender of anoles correctly as well as incorrectly, and describing how to incubate anole eggs.

    Breeding anoles is rather easy as long as you have a proper enclosure set up for them. Usually anoles will mate without any assistance. If they are not breeding, then you can simulate a cooling period by lowering the temperatures and offer less food from October up into February. Then, over the next few weeks, offer much more food to simulate Spring. The key is not to make these changes too sudden. You are trying to stimulate Mating by simulating Nature. During Sexual intercourse, the male anole will Display his dewlap a few times and chase the female anole around. He will then Bite her neck to hold her still and insert his tail under the female anole’s tail to deposit his sperm. Females can hold sperm for up to 7 months if she is not satisfied with the current conditions in the tank. Once the female is gravid, the female will be more susceptible to diseases and stress from the environment and other anoles. She will also need large amounts of Calcium. Without a continuous supply of Calcium, the female will begin to develop deformed, soft bones and will eventually die from lack of Calcium. Proper calcium can be provided by a working UVB bulb that extends the length of the enclosure. The UVB bulb is a MUST for all anoles. You should also be dusting crickets with a powdered calcium supplement WITH vitamin D3. After a successful mating, the female will start laying one egg (sometimes 2) in 2-3 week intervals until she lays as many as 10 to 12 eggs during the entire year. The egg laying process will be sometime during the day for about 15 minutes or so. If the female does not have an appropriate substrate, while holding an egg, she may become egg-bound and die. Preferred substrates are organic potting soil or coconut fiber bedding. There are many names for the same type of product out there. Ex. “Bed-a-beast” or “Tropical Soil”
    *Different species of anoles CANNOT mate with each other to produce viable offspring. They are not genetically compatible with each other and will therefore, not reproduce. That means Brown anoles (Anolis sagrei) and Green anoles (Anolis carolinensis) cannot reproduce.

    Here is a picture of sexual intercourse between two Green anoles:


    When sexing anoles, there are right and wrong ways to do it. There are many misconceptions and myths about sexing anoles.
    Wrong Ways
    Dewlap test. It is said that only males have dewlaps. This is totally incorrect. Both males and females have dewlaps. The males is more colorful and vibrant that the female’s dewlap.
    The White stripe test. It is said that only females exhibit the white stripe going down an anoles back. This is a false statement. Both Males and females may exhibit this line known as the mid-dorsal stripe. Most juvenile anoles have the white stripe but most males lose it as they mature. This is not always the case though. Some males DO show the white stripe (like my male green anole) and to make it even more complicated, some females never show a white stripe.
    Head Shape test. It is said that males have a larger head than females. This statement is partially true. Most males do have a proportionally larger head than females but it does not help identify immature anoles. It is overall, variable between sexes.

    Right ways
    Post anal scale test. It is said that male anoles have two parallel post anal scales on the underside on their tail. This is a very reliable test. Males have two enlarged scales near the vent of the anole, at the base of his tail. You may need magnification for this.
    Hemiphenal bulge test. Mature males have two identical bulges near the base of the tale to keep the his reproductive organs
    Veterinarian test. This is the most accurate test. Get a reptile specialized vet to determine the sex of your anole.
    Brown anoles are much easier to sex though. The two sexes can be distinguished easily by their difference in coloration. Females have a diamond shaped pattern running along her back while males have irregular splotches or patterns on his body.
    Here is a picture of post anal scales on a male green anole:

    *The post anal scales are colored differently to help distinguish. They are not purple naturally.
    :) Here is the part on taking care of eggs.

    After a successful mating, the female will start laying one egg (sometimes 2) in 2-3 week intervals until she lays as many as 10 to 12 eggs during the entire year. Keep in mind, Female anoles can store sperm for up to 7 months so you may have a gravid anole even if you purchased one.
    *Do not roll or flip the eggs. It can drown the embryo
    When incubating eggs, you can either put them in an incubator or you can leave them in the tank. If your enclosure is under the proper conditions, it will be able to incubate the eggs. IF you do incubate in the tank, other anoles may attack and eat the eggs.
    If you do not want them to be incubated in the enclosure, you can put them in an incubator. You can either make one or buy a commercial one.
    You can make an egg incubator by filling a small, plastic container half full of MOIST vermiculite and place the egg on top of the mixture. You can then, place the container back into the anole enclosure where it can be kept warm at temperatures around 75-90 degrees Fahrenheit. Make sure not to keep the vermiculite too moist or too dry. If the eggs are incubated in the cage, they will hatch in about 40-45 days. If they are incubated in a commercial incubator set at 85 degrees Fahrenheit, they will hatch in 35-40 days.
    If the eggs are found dented or on top of the substrate, it may likely be infertile and may not grow. Anole eggs are small. They are about the size of a Tic-Tac.
    If they hatch, separate them from the adults. Baby anoles are small, only about 1.25 inches. Adults, including the mothers, may eat baby anoles or they may not let the baby anoles eat. They can eat flightless fruit flies, pinhead crickets, Small leafhoppers, and small roach nymphs.


    --------------------
  16. 00luke00 Well-Known Member

    Message Count:
    4,853
    This thread was closed due to it being very old.

    The information you provided was a great article posted by one of our members.

    To comply with copyright rules, please remember to source or link your information when it is not your own. The information can be found in the sticky at the top of this forum: http://www.reptilerooms.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=53606

    Luke
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page