ok im a newb here. does anyone own a yellow throated plated lizard? im gonna get one, and im the kind of person that needs to know everything about the lizard before getting them. unfortunately, i had to learn from my only big mistake in the reptile world: impulse buying. i'll never do it again. also, im not sure if this is in the right place, but does anyone own a fan-footed gecko? if they do, are they usually wild caught?
i think they have a caresheet for a yellow throated plated on this site i have sudan plateds so the care should be similar i have them in a 65 gallon on shelf liner, with a sand box they can play n dig in a water dish they can lay in if they choose 2 hides and i heat it with a 40 watt red bulb over a slate tile temps gets about 100 F, tank is around 90 on hot side and 75ish on cool side a uvb/uva flourecent lite i feed them earthworms,superworms,crickets,chopped up cat food(brand at vets),fruits n veggies(pretty much same as a beardie) not tons of care sheets on any type of plateds but this is the care i was told to give them and what ive read it seems to be correct =)
Here's a caresheet that hasn't been put up on the site yet so this will be a long post! Hope it helps! Care and Husbandry of the Yellow-Striped Plated Lizard (Gerrhosaurus flavigularis) Angie Stidham, Capital University Natural History Known as both the Yellow-Striped Plated Lizard and the Yellow-Throated Plated Lizard, Gerrhosaurus flavigularis is a relatively long, slender lizard whose natural habitat in Africa ranges widely through the mountainous and desert regions from the eastern portion of the continent towards the southern portion. Key features of G. flavigularis are their long, thin bodies, short, stout legs, triangular shaped head, and long (nearly twice the length of the body) tail. Lizards are commonly between 16 and 18 inches long. These features make G. flavigularis an excellent burrower that can disappear into loose soil in a matter of seconds. In the wild they can commonly be found in burrows of their own creation or termite mounds. Their coloration and patterning is essentially the same between individuals. The scales on the underside of the lizard are generally white to medium yellow. Dorsal scales are generally dark brown to deep red with two yellow to white stripes down the back starting from behind the head and continuing down the tail. Ventral scales are commonly light brown to deep orange with scattered yellow to white scales. Scales are separate but form in lines across the body and move together in an accordion-like fashion as though there was one large banded scale. These bands of scales have been termed “plates” for their uniform appearance. G. flavigularis sheds frequently and scales shed individually or in short strips. Toes on both front and back legs are clawed. Teeth are small, barely noticeable, but jaw pressure is relatively strong, giving the lizard a surprisingly strong and effective bite against it’s small insect prey. Eyes are large, dark with circular pupils. G. flavigularis is an excellent runner and swiftly outruns predators. Primarily insectivorous, these lizards are also known to eat some fruits and vegetables and some small vertebrates. Species is oviparous (egg-laying) and females lay 2-6 oblong-shaped eggs underground and hatchling are approximately 100 centimeters long. Males have 11-17 large femoral pores along the inside of each back leg. Many individuals of this species offered in the pet trade are wild caught and will require an extensive quarantine period due to possibility of parasitic infection. A wellness checkup by a qualified veterinarian is highly recommended for new arrivals and a deworming regimen followed since many infections may go unnoticed for several weeks. Recommended Enclosures Being excellent burrowers, G. flavigularis does not require a tall enclosure. One adult lizard may be housed easily in a 20 gallon long glass aquarium but large accommodations are always recommended, upwards of a 4ftL x 4ftW x 2ftH enclosure. Lid should be screened to allow for air changes and release of excess heat. Lid should be secure, even able to be locked, since these lizards can climb or jump when necessary and are strong enough to lift many commercially available lids easily. Substrate can vary. Newspaper, recycled paper liners, and reptile carpet are acceptable but do not allow for burrowing. Crushed, rounded walnut shells, leaf-litter, or reptile bark (dry mulch) substrate are suitable and allow for burrowing. Sand should be avoided to prevent impaction due to ingestion. Although G. flavigularis does not shy away from open spaces, a hide box should also be provided to allow shelter from heat and environmental stress. Substrate should be sifted a few times each week to remove loose fecal material and changed completely at least every three months. Wet substrate, especially wood varieties, should be removed in a timely manner to prevent mold or fungus growth. Hide can be cork bark, half-log real wood, stone cave, or false stone cave. A large, shallow water dish should be provided and water changed daily. Artificial plants can be added to vivarium for appearance and shelter. Rocks a various sizes are also acceptable and provide both hiding spaces and basking locations. Large rocks should be placed in cage securely to prevent rolling or slipping. Logs or branches can also be added provided they are properly disinfected. Lighting and Heating A heat lamp with a simple 60-watt bulb can be sat on top of the lid (as long as the lid is heat resistant – metal frames are best). A broad-spectrum reptile bulb is recommended and UVA/UVB lighting can be used but is not necessary. Light should be provided for approximately 12 hours each day with 12 hours of dark. Cycles may be changed to match natural daylight cycles but a consistent day/night cycle is recommended. If necessary at night, a blue or black reptile ‘night’ light can be used to supplement heat. Since G. flavigularis prefers arid to desert climates, the temperature of the enclosure should be between 85 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and about 10-15 degrees less at night. Under tank heatpads are also available for heating but lighting should still be provided for proper maintenance of circadian rhythms. There are a variety of different cage thermometers available and regulating and monitoring the temperature in any enclosure is a good idea. Digital thermometers are best for accurate monitoring and are fairly inexpensive. Humidity maintenance is not necessary as humidity can be relatively low. If scales are not shedding properly, misting the lizard with warm water is acceptable to aid shedding process. Feeding G. flavigularis is insectivorous and should be offered crickets dusted with a calcium supplement three times a week. One adult lizard can easily consume 8-12 crickets at one feeding but care should be taken to avoid overfeeding. Crickets may be left in cage until next feeding, but fewer crickets should be added if there are any leftover from previous feeding. Mealworms and waxworms can also be offered once weekly as a supplemental food source. Worms should be offered in shallow dish to deter escape as they will burrow into loose substrate. Grasshoppers and termites can also be offered. Wild caught insects should be avoided as these insects may harbor transmissible parasites. Some lizards will accept fruit such as apples, pears, banana, strawberries, or grapes, chopped finely but most will not. Such diet supplements should only be offered as treats a few times a month.
