I'm planning on getting a pair of baby yellow ackie monitors i have a cage that is 4Lx2Wx2H should i use a 50 watt halogen. Also do they like to climb or are they mostly dig.
Hey Scarface, You're going to have to check the basking spot with a thermometer or even better a temp gun. Its difficult to say what wattage you will need. It depends on a few factors. The background temperature of the room the cage is in and distance between the lizard and the bulb. As mkbailey said its useful to use a platform to get the lizard closer to the bulb so you can use the smallest wattage possible to get the correct temps. But the only way to know is to check. Ackies are very squirrel like. They love to dig. However, they will climb if given the chance. So aside from the deep substrate for digging I would also include some plywood stacks, cork bark stacks or branches for climbing. Side note. Thats a decent size cage for adult ackies. If yours are very small, hatchling size or a bit bigger, you may want to start them in a smaller cage and then move them up to their permanent enclosure. Keeping track of two very small lizards in cage that size would be a chore. And a smaller cage makes it easier to for them to find their food. Just a thought.
thanks for the great info i also wanted to ask if they will be fine in that size cage reason being i heard yes from the breeder I'm getting them from but no from another website. Also i have a 100 watt halogen bulb just in case it is hot enough and I'm getting a temp gun soon so i will monitor the heat for at lease a couple of days before i get the ackies.
The cage size is the bare minimum in my opinion. It will work. Would something larger be preferred? Sure. But what you have is ok. Its certainly better than a lot of other things I see people use for ackies. Thats for darn sure. The temp gun is a great idea. Its a wonderful tool to have. You can check your whole cage and get accurate readings. Basking spot, hot side, cool side, your grilled cheese sandwich, whatever. A 100 watt bulb is huge. I highly doubt you will need anything that big. Id rather see you use a smaller bulb and just elevate them closer to it. Smaller bulbs are safer and cheaper to run. Wanted to add something. Your idea of getting your temps right BEFORE you get the lizards is dead on. That way you can get everything straight and functioning well before your new arrivals. Too many folks get the lizards and the cage at the same time and run around like maniacs trying to get it set up. Big mistake and thats where problems can arise. Getting them started right is so important so big gold star for you ^_^
I was also thinking the way i have cage my its a 4Lx2wx6H cage all together, but what I did was I split it up into four cages two are 4x2x18" another is 4x2x2 one 4x2x10". If theres not enough room i could always turn the 4x2x2 cage into a 4x2x4. I don't know why i never thought of it before i definitely have to post pictures so everyone can see what I'm talking about it going to look really nice when it all done.
I don't know how true this is..but i've heard when monitors grow up they don't like to be around other monitors. I only have one savanna, so I can't test that fact...but it might be something to look into in case you really want to get two of them and then have to put them in 2 cages later on (2 cages, 2 sets of lights...just looking at cost)
the ackie monitor cage is just about finished just trying to decide if i should go with one of two ackies. I also wanted to know which is better for that size cage a red or yellow ackie. also can anyone who owns an ackie monitor post there feeding schedule.
Whether to get a single animal or a pair is an interesting topic to me. So let's rock. If this is your first monitor getting one will simplify things a bit. Whenever you keep more than one reptile per cage it requires a little more care and observation. Of course, some lizards absolutely hate each other and can not be kept together at all. Monitors are pretty smart as far as lizards go and they often get along particularly if they are raised together. But, there is always the chance that one may fight with or dominate the other. From my own experience, and I have quite a few ackies, I have only had one male who does not get along well with others. I keep all the others in groups and they are fine. You just have to be prepared to seperate them if a problem arises. Although personally I think the chances of two hatchlings getting along are quite good. Feeding becomes more of an issue when keeping pairs or groups. Healthy ackies are voracious and will go into a frenzy when food is introduced. So you have to make sure each lizard is getting its fair share. Also, they may occaisonally grab the same food item or nip one another during feeding. They may aim for a cricket or roach, miss and grab a cage mates leg. Not really a big deal for hatchlings since they really arent strong enough to hurt each other but could be a concern for larger animals. Some people seperate the animals during feeding. I dont like to do that, I just keep an eye on them and try to scatter enough food so everyone has something to chase. And I somtimes have to become a bouncer and seperate two knuckleheads who have grabbed the same roach, lol. Thats with live food mind you. When I feed thawed pinkies in a bowl I dont have to worry since they dont freak out like they do over live food. And naturally you should have enough basking spots and hiding spaces to allow the lizards to get away from each other if they so choose. Although my guys tend to all hang out together. Its kinda funny, actually. They will all cram into the same hide or pile up under the same basking spot even with plenty of free space available. Goofy things. Now, on the pro side I think keeping monitors in groups is more interesting and rewarding. I know a lot of scientists say monitors are not social but when you keep them in groups you see some cool behaviors. Many of the well known keepers/breeders keep their animals in groups with no problems. Plus, you may be fortunate enough to wind up with a male and female. So whether you get one or a pair is up to you. My opinion, I like keeping groups. I feel the extra effort is worth it. I cant say for certain if monitors are social but I do know they are way more interesting in groups than alone. As far as cage size true red ackies get a little larger than yellows. I dont think the difference is substantial enough to cause much concern regarding cage size. They are pretty close. So I would just pick the one you like better. MY feeding schedule. I feed a lot, LOL! I feed hatchling and juvies every single day and I think thats important. I feed the adults almost every day based on their reaction to my presence. In other words, I know when they're hungry and when they are not interested in food. I dont follow a set schedule it's based on the animals. If they are all buried I dont bother them. I might put a bowl in there with a few pinks just in case. Sometimes its gone the next morning, sometimes it isnt. But if they come out and look up at me I know they're ready to eat and I feed them. Not an exact science by any means just the way I do it. Best advice I can give: If they are hungry feed them until they are full. They may not be interested in food now and then. Thats fine. Sometimes even the juvies will skip a day. I let them decide when they are ready to eat. But food is always available if they want it. So for your hatchlings I would highly suggest feeding daily. Making sure they have the correct temps to digest their food. Its not unusual for baby ackies to eat, bask, poop and be ready to eat again. Thats fine. Heat'em and feed'em as the saying goes.
thanks for the great advised actually besides the 4x2x2 I have 2 4x2x18" cages so just in case I'll have to separate them. Don't worry i can make one of the 4x2x18" cages into a 4x2x2 just in case. I have thought about all and anything that may go wrong also the only thing i am trying to figure out is how I'm going to do the lighting i was thinking either a long strip light and two way for each of them to get under it to bask. Or two heat lamp on one side and put something under each so they both have there own basking spot. If anyone has any idea i am open to any suggestion to make there home nice oh and i have a temp gun coming in the mail soon so when i get it I'll make sure the temperature are right and then get the ackies.
I'd go for the two bulbs on one side and just use a large enough platform so there is room for both. But dont be surprised if they pile up they dont always follow the rules Good call on the temp gun. Fabulous tool. Sounds like you got a plan going.
one more question is there a sealant that not toxic to reptile because I'll need one to make sure the dirt doesn't get out because there some space in between the wood. i was wondering if aquarium sealant will work without making them sick also when you feed them mice do you use live or f/t.
Sealant made for aquariums will work fine. It's animal safe. The stuff you buy at Home Depot may contain chemicals to prevent mold which could cause problems. However, I *think* that there is a product available at most home stores that is animal safe but it's name escapes me. Perhaps someone else can chime in. I use frozen/thawed rodents mainly but I also have a small colony of breeder mice which produce some pinkies and fuzzies for me. The vast majority of what I feed is frozen since breeding all the rodents I need would be quite a task and buying bulk frozen feeders is much more efficient. I see no problem using a diet of strictly frozen foods although they certainly do enjoy the live prey when they can get it. I also feed roaches which of course are introduced live so they do get the chance to chase and catch live food even if they dont get live rodents very often. If you only have a one or two monitors and want to feed live or freshly killed prey by all means do. I just use frozen due to the number of animals I have and the cost.
ok the last question i have is substrate do you use just top soil or top soil mixed with play sand and if topsoil mixed with play sand and how do you mix it evenly. Cant wait till saturday that when the temp gun comes in and i can check the temp in the cage. oh and LETS GO GIANTS
I use topsoil/playsand mix as I find straight topsoil turns into mud when you add water. I actually think that dirt collected from a good area is superior but alas I no longer live in such an area and dont have the same amount of time for dirt hunting. But my store bought mix is a close second and it does its job. I dont mix it evenly. I use mostly dirt with about 25% sand or so. A little more, a little less, its not an exact science. When you add a certain amount of water to it the mix should hold a burrow. If it does that then you did a good job. I do sift the dirt through a heavy gauge screen to remove any sticks, rocks and big clumps. It makes a finer product. Now the big question is do the lizards like it? No matter what I say, no matter what any other so called expert might say, the real proof is in the monitors. If they like the soil they will burrow or at the very least dig in it. If they dont like it they wont. Then you have to be play trouble shooter. Is it too wet? Too dry? Too much sand? Not enough? Not deep enough? Maybe a different brand of topsoil? Or do they love it from the get go? I figured out what works for my guys by trial and error. With every mistake I got closer to what they wanted. They will be your final judge.
Bad news the web site that i was going to get the ackies from is sold out can anyone please recommend a ackie breeder beside Pro Exotic not that there not great but there price is a little steep.
