Ventilation and more

Discussion in 'Enclosures, Heating & Lighting' started by Fiche, Sep 27, 2006.

  1. Fiche

    Fiche GOTM Winner

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    I'm finally going to pick up work on my custom leopard gecko tank, but I have a few questions.

    First, we are planning to build the viv out of a material similar to lexan or plexi-glass. Will this cause any problems with the UTH? What I'm concerned about is whether or not enough heat will make it through the plexiglass. A family member suggested leaving a cut-out on the bottom of the viv and securing the UTH directly to the tile substrate. Do you think this will be necessary, or will the heat transfer just fine through the bottom of the tank?

    Secondly, our current tank is a 10 gallon (hence the move) "all glass" aquarium with a metal screened top. This seems to allow for a flow of fresh air, without making the UTH work too hard. For the new tank we are planning to have sliding plexiglass/lexan doors instead of a top screen. I want to provide a way for there to be airflow, without creating a draft. Would I be able to drill holes on the sides of the tank to allow for proper airflow? If so, how many holes, and how large should they be? The tank will be just about 60 gallons if that makes any difference.

    Last but not least, I want to make it so that a red-heat bulb, or CHE can be used in conjunction with the UTH. The new viv will have a plexi-glass/lexan top instead of screen, and I am worried about whether or not I can use an overhead heat source with that. Should I make a cut-out in the material as was suggested for the UTH?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
     
  2. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  3. electrixx

    electrixx New Member

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    Someone correct me if I'm wrong but IMHO having a solid top isnt a great plan for leos. Heat (and condensation) will collect inside the viv if there isn't enough ventilation provided-- the heat from the UTH will travel upwards, and then when it doesn't get released it will head sideways, etc. The holes probably aren't a good plan (esp if you feed crix or roaches!) because believe it or not there will be more of a draft from side to side than with just an opening in the top. I would suggest (so that you can still have your sliding doors!) that you incorporate some screen into it. They have rolls of screen for very cheap at Home Depot & you can use a hot glue gun (but sand the area where you are gluing it first, for better hold) similar to the info sheet on this site about how to build your own roach/cricket container.

    Hope that helps at least a little bit. ;) Definitely post pics of your viv when it's done,that will be awesome to see!
     
  4. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  5. Fiche

    Fiche GOTM Winner

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    Thanks for the input electrixx. I don't feed crickets anymore, and have my leo on a worm only diet for now, so there shouldn't be a problem with escapees. That's an important thing to think about though if I ever want to go back to those feeders.

    I have seen a lot of spacious rack mountings and similar things with solid tops, so I didn't think that having a solid top would be a problem. If it isn't ideal though I'll modify the plan. I do already have a roll of wiring though, so that is something to think about. I bought it originally to put over any holes that I might have to drill for ventilation, or to have a place to hang the light over, or what not.

    Does anyone else know anything about heating plexi-glass/lexan, and if my wire screen will be necessary for around the light and the UTH?

    Thanks for your help electrixx, and I will certainly be putting up pictures once the work gets started. ;)
     

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