Some advise on a petstore error!!

Discussion in 'Rhacodactylus (Crested) Geckos' started by stina3246, Oct 13, 2004.

  1. stina3246

    stina3246 Member

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    270
    :oops: I was at a petsmart today and was delighted to notice that they had baby crested geckos (for about $80) But then I noticed that on the info sheet attached to thier enclosure it said to give them a basking spot of 100-110 !! :shock: Sure enough...they had a heat lamp on the enclosure and it didn't look red to me!! I'm guessing that's bad!! I spoke with one of the sales people and told her I believed that a crestie can died from stress if it gets over 85. :evil: They said they'd check into it. Now I'm worried about them.....should I go back and make sure the error was fixed? Should I invest $160 to rescue the 2 babies that were in there?
    What would you guys do?
     
  2. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  3. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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    Hmmm i have no idea, same thing happened to me with Jack Aquarium & Pets. A place native to ohio and other areas near. They said it should be about 95 degrees. I tolf them, and they said, I'll check about that, thank you for your concern. That was last year and no change!

    I dont know what to tell you, its your desision
     
  4. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  5. v2r

    v2r Embryo

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    i'd personally not invest in a local store that was not caring for the animals properly. if you bought them they would just buy more and treat them the same way. i'd refer them to a few good websites or caresheets on cresteds and let them be. one of the best ways to get local shops to care for animals better is too not support the ones that don't take good care and give your business to the people that do!

    thanks
    vaughn
     
  6. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  7. KLiK

    KLiK Well-Known Member

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    dont invest instead print out caresheets that are more realistic and show them
     
  8. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  9. stina3246

    stina3246 Member

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    I couldn't afford the $160 right now anyway....I just had a $100 vet bill with my beardie. I may go back another day and see if anything has been done. I did inform them on the problem but you're right. Care sheets are a good idea. Maybe something from this site?
     
  10. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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  11. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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    I'll have my caresheet done soon. Sorry for the delay, it is up to date and very accurate. I'm going to sent it to Axe tomorrow once all of the corrections are made, its approximately 6 full pages on microsoft word. Like I said, its very accurate and up to date with all the inforation from reliable sources. It should be done by tomorrow, and if Axe wants to put it on the site he can, buts his 100% his desision. I can send a small example of it, its not quite complete yet, but its good enough. I still have a couple of things to add and change. If you see anything wrong please tell me. It is a rough draft and completely from reliable sources and in my own words, no plaigerism. I'll make it on a new post, considering it may be long:
     
  12. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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    5,483
    CRESTED GECKO CARESHEET
    BY: JEFFREY HOWELL ( JEFFREH )


    INTRODUCTION:

    Crested Geckos come from the wet and dense forests of New Caledonia and other surrounding islands. These small geckos can usually be kept at room temperature and have very basic care needs. Because of their amazing colors, alien like appearance, and their ease of care, crested geckos are becoming extremely popular in the pet trade, possibly being able to overthrow the leopard geckos rein of best pet gecko.

    Like other gecko species, they have adhesive like pads on their toes as well as their prehensile tail. This allows them to climb almost any surface and it gives them plenty of maneuverability in the forests from which they live. These strange geckos also have another odd attribute, they can jump several feet if they want to. They prepare themselves and seem to measure the distance and where they want to go, and then they take a huge leap. This ability allows them to hop from tree to tree in the wild, as well as escape predators. Another predator escape trick is to drop their tail. Unfortunately, they will not grow back this tail once dropped.

    Believe it or not, these lizards were actually thought to be extinct up until 1994 when they were “rediscovered” in relatively large numbers on the main island of New Caledonia, Grande Terra. From there they were taken to Europe then imported into the US.

    DESCRIPTION:

    The Crested Gecko (Rhacodactylus ciliatus) is a very strange but magnificent looking creature. They have small crests that almost look like eyelashes (giving them their other name, the eyelash gecko) which run down from the head all the way to mid back. They can attain a length of about 7-10 inches when full grown, males being larger than females. There are now a large number of different colors and patterns available including various yellows, oranges, reds, browns, grays, and even white and green!

    HOUSING:

    The absolute minimum cage size for an adult crested gecko is a 20 gallon high aquarium. While two, maybe three could be happily housed in a 29 gallon aquarium. Male crested geckos should never be housed together; they will fight for territory as well as mates. These lizards tend to do fine solo however females can be kept together with no problems under the right conditions. Crested geckos have been known to make small clicking and chirping noises to one another, especially during breeding season.

    The enclosure should be ventilated, and because crested geckos are arboreal height is better than length when it comes to housing. For a happy gecko, the enclosure should be 16+ inches and the cage should have plenty of foliage and climbing materials. They tend to only come to the ground to hunt or explore, so be sure to make any hiding places above the ground. They seem to enjoy hiding behind or on leaves and other plants best.


    These geckos can be kept on a number of different substrates. The most preferred by far are coconut fibers and potting soil. However I advise that you take out any stringy pieces of the coconut so that the gecko does not choke if ingested. They can also be kept on peat moss, shelf liner, paper towel, reptile carpet, or wood chips. If using wood chips please be sure they are too large to swallow. The cage should be spot cleaned when necessary and should be completely changed every month or so.

    For new or sick animals, keep the cage setup simple. Use paper towel and only a few different hiding spots. Make sure it is kept sanitary at all times and keep the gecko as comfortable as possible.

    HEATING/LIGHTING/HUMIDITY:

    Another reason the crested gecko is such a great pet, is because they can usually be kept in room temperature. The daytime temperature should be about 74 – 80 degrees F. While the Night time temperature should be about 65 - 75 degrees F. You should allow a period of cooling during the winter, especially if you plan on breeding. Do not let the temperature exceed 84 F! In the wild they are protected from the intense heat by the trees, they can stress out and die from temperatures being to hot.

    A 12-14 hour period of light is beneficial to the crested gecko. It should vary from season to season, becoming cooler and darker during the winter and hotter and brighter during the summer. Being nocturnal, these geckos do not need UV lighting; however it won’t hurt to have it. It is somewhat beneficial to them.

    The humidity for a crested gecko should be between 60%-90%. Daily spraying 1-3 times a day should keep the humidity high enough. Mist the cage heavily at night when they are most active. It seems that they become more active and willing to feed after being sprayed.

    DIET:

    Crested geckos are omnivores, meaning they eat both meat and fruit. This is yet another reason why they make such wonderful pets. They can be fed crickets, silkworms, and roaches. Mealworms and waxworms should be fed sparingly due to the high amount of fat in waxworms and the hard exoskeleton in the mealworm. They can eat many types of fruit, which can be served in baby food. They will eat peach, apricot, banana, pear, apple, and others will also be accepted.

    Younger animals should be fed insects every day or every other day, while adults will eat insects 3 times a week or so. They should be fed 2-6 food items about ½ -1/3 the space between the eyes. The rest of the diet should compose of various fruit baby foods. Adults should eat close to a tablespoon of baby food at a feeding.

    They should also be fed the crested gecko diet made by Allen Repashy of the Sandfire dragon ranch. It has all the essential nutrients needed in it to keep a crested gecko happy and healthy. Some may stick their nose up to it, but you can offer some mixed with the fruit baby food for those picky eaters. For added protein, your gecko can also eat meat baby food such as chicken. But please, never solely feed baby foods only, it is best to keep their natural instincts as best mimicked as possible. Therefore hunting is somewhat essential.

    For young cresties I recommend offering different supplementation. They should be fed crickets or baby food dusted with calcium 5-7 times a week when young, and about 3 times a week when adults. They should also be fed a multivitamin supplement that can be dusted onto food items 1-3 times a week for babies and only about once a week or every couple weeks for adults. They should also be fed spirulina and bee pollen once a week mixed with baby food for added nutrients.


    NEVER FEED things that you just find in your yard! Fireflies are extremely deadly and can kill your gecko if eaten. The risk of parasites or if the bug got into pesticides is too great to risk. Only feed insects that you are sure are safe.

    For water, a small and shallow dish should be available at all times. Most will learn to drink from this however they will get most of their water from licking surfaces that have been recently sprayed with water.

    HEALTH:

    The crested gecko is a very hardy lizard in captivity. There are very few diseases they can get, and most are treatable by a vet. One of the biggest concerns is shedding. While shedding the gecko will turn very dull, and possibly almost white. Don’t be alarmed if you see your gecko eating its skin after coming off, this is 100% normal. The entire process can take 15-45 minutes. Be sure to keep the humidity very high so they can get it all off easier, and if there is some still on the toes or around the tail be sure to keep the humidity up. If you are worried that the shed skin will not come off, take a cotton swab and dampen it. Then slowly push the shed skin off. This is important because if the skin does not come off, it can constrict and completely take off the toe of the gecko.

    HANDLING:

    Personally, I find these geckos to be even tamer than leopard geckos. They are much easier to control because they cling to you with their toes and they have soft skin. These geckos will generally allow you to handle them for short periods of time, if handled gently. These geckos tend to calm down with age, and will usually become very laid back in most cases; however there are a few who are flighty. I don’t recommend handling young crested geckos under the age of four months; this is the stage when they are most likely to drop their tail. Keep handling as enjoyable and stress free as possible; never handle your gecko roughly, if they drop their tail it will not grow back.

    My crested gecko is very tame from a little secret I found out. I only feed my crested gecko fruit baby food outside of the cage, therefore every time I walk into the room he runs up to the top of his enclosure waiting for me to open the screen top. The moment I open it, he leaps onto my shirt for his daily 20 minute handling session that ends with his baby food treat.

    SEXING/BREEDING:

    Crested geckos are not completely sex dependent like some other species. However when the temperature is cooler more tend to be more females than males and vise versa. Crested geckos are sexable between the ages of 4-6 months. Males develop obvious hemipenal bulges at the base of their tails at this age, and can easily be told apart from females.

    Crested geckos are relatively easy to breed. Most will breed readily once placed together however a winter cooling period is helpful to stimulate natural behavior and give the females a break. Females are capable of being bred at about 12 months of age while males at about 8 months. Both should be healthy and plump for breeding. Be sure to supplement the female with added calcium during this time to help reduce calcium deficiency.

    Females like to lay their eggs in moist dark places. If you use coconut fibers, then be sure to be on the look out for eggs if the female is gravid. Place a laying box in the enclosure that measures about 5” x 5” x 4” with a hole at the top for entrance and exit. The eggs should be removed within 24 hours of being laid or they will dry out. If the eggs are kept within the enclosure and optimal hatching requirements are met, than the eggs may hatch inside of the cage. However I advise that you take the newborns out immediately or the adults may make a meal out of them. The best way to get a female to use the nest box would be to have a simple setup with few plants and simple substrate. Females can lay 1-2 eggs per clutch and they can lay up to 18 eggs per year. The average being about 12 eggs.

    Once the eggs are collected you can place them in a sealable plastic container with holes at the top for ventilation. You can use a variety of substrates for the incubator, including perlite, vermiculite, potting soil, or coconut husk. Most breeders prefer perlite over anything else, which you can purchase from most garden stores. Place about 2 inches of the substrate in the container and keep it at a 1:1 ratio of water and dry substrate or a little wetter. The temperature should be between 73-80 degrees Fahrenheit inside the incubator. After about 60-90 days there should be little crested geckos exploring their new and bazaar world.

    HATCHLING CARE:

    Hatchlings are best kept in small Rubbermaid containers with paper towel or non adhesive shelf liner as a substrate until they are about 1-4 months old. The only furniture that should be found in the cage during this time would be a couple of hides and a shallow water dish. I advise you to keep hatchlings in separate containers until they reach about a month old, to reduce stress and the risk of nips from cage mates. Then once they are about 4 months they should be back in their own enclosures to avoid territory or breeding disputes with males. Once they reach sexual maturity you can keep them in adult sized enclosures.

    Newborn crested geckos will not eat until after their first shed, which can be anywhere from 2-5 days after hatching. Feed hatchlings small crickets that are about ½ the distance between their eyes. They should consume about 2-6 food items daily. Babies should be fed more meat than fruit, and should be offered baby food about 1-3 times a week with crickets also. Be sure to take all crickets that are not eaten out of the cage so not to stress your gecko.

    LONGEVITY:

    Crested geckos are strong and hardy. Because they have only been kept in captivity for a few years their true life span is not know. However it is believed that like most other lizards, they are capable of exceeding 20 years. With proper care, these lizards can live anywhere from 10-20 years.
     
  13. stina3246

    stina3246 Member

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    It looks very complete and well written. I'm still new to the lizard thing so I couldn't tell you if there are any mistakes but it sure would be a useful piece for someone new to cresties. I'd like to print it out and show it to the people at pet smart if it's ok with you. (If they haven't corrected thier error yet.)
     
  14. JEFFREH

    JEFFREH Administrator

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    ok, np.

    Works for me, anything to help someone learn about crested geckos, thats what the caresheets for. Thank for finding it of some assistence
     
  15. wideglide

    wideglide Well-Known Member

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    Sorry but I have to speak my mind. This is just a typical example of the thought that is put in to the care of the animals these stores sell. "Oh, it's a reptile? Well shoot, stick a heat lamp in there and put some of that calcium stuff in the bottom. It should be fine in there with that. BTW, if they start dying off up the temps some and see if that helps". Of course none of that was actually said but you get my point.

    Now you said this was a printed info sheet they have. Chances are every other petstupid in this country has the same info for cresteds. Exactly what does this say about these stores? It says they don't get it! Or even care! How long would it take to get on the net or pick up one of the books they make money on? For God's sake at least give this animal 10 minutes of research. If this is a caresheet put by the company it completely proves beyond the shadow of a doubt they don't give a crap about the animals they make their money on.

    If your local petstupid is good I'll say this. For every one of the decent one's out there, there's probably 10 that suck and do nothing but make animals suffer so they can get their dime.

    Okay I've vented, now I'm done.
     
  16. stina3246

    stina3246 Member

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    I'll tell you what though...I almost got a white gargoyle gecko from a different petstupid for $30. I saw him in a tank with fanfooted geckos and asked how much he was, the girl who helped me said he was $30 like the rest but he was an albino and that's why he looked funny. I told her I'd take him but she was afraid to take him out so she called over another girl who, while she knew it wasn't a fan footed gecko, she didn't know what it was. Being honest I told her it was a gargoyle but it took her another 45 min to confirm it and finally come up with a $100 price tag. If I would have thought faster, I would have offered to take the gecko out myself and he'd be sitting in one of my enclosures lapping up babyfood. I may keep my eyes open for opportunities like that again though! All people involved where friendly and helpful...and VERY young. It's thier first job many times and they think it would be cool to work at a pet shop, not really knowing anything about the animals they sell. These young people will learn eventually through people like us who what to make sure the animals are well cared for but in the mean time it's the animals that suffer.
    They are primarily a cat and dog store and the petsmart I normally go to has an Equine section...they are usually knowledgable about stuff like that. It just seems that theere are so many variations of reptiles....all horses eat the same thing, same with cats and dogs to an extent, they all need the same basic care but reptiles are so diverse it's hard for a person making min. wage to learn all the differences of all the different species. I think the people who work there for the most part care...it's the corporation who should get the blame...maybe if they had people who specialize in each animal sold...a cat expert, dog expert, reptile expert etc.
     
  17. wideglide

    wideglide Well-Known Member

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    I totally agree with you the blame should go to corporate. If I were just starting to get into herps and was a petstupid employee I'b buy whatever the store suggests. I mean you would tend to rely on a huge facility that they know what there are doing. It's just part of another unfortunate situation.
     

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