I've already planned out a double enclosure using 3/4" 4'x8' marine plywood and cabinet firring strips with sliding glass frontage, etc... 6' high x 5' wide x 2' deep. It will be relatively easy to build, as I am a welder/fabricator by trade (though I now sit in an office). My biggest concerns were heat issues from the IR heat emitters (which has been successfully resolved by using stand-offs), and what to seal and paint the wood with. It has to be able to withstand 90 degree temps without releasing dangerous fumes or cracking, as well as 40% - 70% humidity without adverse affect, and not cause problems to the snakes health. If anyone knows of, or has used any sealers or paints that can safely be used for my intended purpose, please let me know. TIA, Dann
A water-based polyurethane should be good, although you'll probably need several coats of it. You might want to wander down to home depot and see what they suggest. Something that's good in kitchens could be ok - most kitchen counters are exposed to pretty high temperatures with hot pans being placed on them, steam from kettles, pans of boiling fluids, spillage, etc., and of course, it would have to be non-toxic if food is to be prepared there. So that might be a good bet. Keep us posted on how you go with development of this, and feel free to post pics of its construction if you like
Thanks John. I'm not a super duper computer guy, but I do have a digital camera. If I were to e-mail pics to you, could you post them? I should have the time and money in about a week to begin. I need to make sure I have all the problems identified and worked out prior to beginning, and that was the last big one.
I've done extensive cabinet work (professionally) and am very familiar with various finishes. By far the the most durable finish for water, abrasion and heat resistance would be polyurethanes. That is certainly the finish of choice for high wear furniture such as table tops. Multiple coats would be the way to go. The only drawback is that it often takes a long time for each coat to dry. They do make quick drying formulas but in many cases (high humidity) the finish can remain tacky for a long time. I hate polyurethane for that reason. In the Georgia heat and humidity it can take me 3 weeks to put 3 coats on a piece of furniture. For kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities the finish-of-choice by most cabinet shops is precatalyzed lacquer. It goes down fast with a HVLP gun, is self-sealing, dries to the touch in 4 minutes and you can easily lay 6 coats in one afternoon. It is almost as durable as polyurethane. That's great if you got a minimum 5hp compressor and HVLP conversion gun. Now let me tell you what I use for reptile cage interiors. I use a two-part epoxy paint. Sold by Lowes and Home Deport as garage floor paint it is a little expensive (around $30 a gallon) but once you mix up the resin portion with the hardener (has a pot life of about an hour) and brush it on it cures into a non-toxic, bulletproof, watertight coating. I use two coats. Put one coat on and let it cure overnight. Next day sand lightly with 220 and apply a second coat. Here's my latest cage with epoxy paint interior: http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid1...61/f9c246e8.jpg Good luck. To me building enclosures that are both esthetic and that meet the animal's needs is one of the "fun" parts of keeping reptiles. George
Thanks for the help guys, and George, I agree on the cage construction aspect 100%. I really appreciate your input, as that was spot on. 2 part epoxy paint it is. Your cage looks great. John, when I get started, I'll try and take some during pics, as well as the finished product and e-mail 'em to you. Thanks again, Dann
