I just got a new Egyptian Uro yesterday. I have never had one-(I have sulcata and russian tortoises and a leopard gecko though). I read EVERYTHING I could about them and their habitat-so I think the set up is correct. I know he is stressed but yesterday I thought he was too hot-almost panting-but it was a little over 100 on his basking rock. I then turned the lights off for the night-was told it should be mid 60s-but when I woke up this morning he looked dead-stiff and cold...I warmed him up and he looks fine now. Is this what they look like at night? Am I doing something wrong? I honestly thought he was dead!! ANY help would be great! Thanks
Hi, It will take him some time to settle in. We need to know more about your setup to make sure it's correct. If you can answer these questions. The most important is What are you measuring the temperatures with You should be using a digital thermometer with a probe not these stick-on or dial type types, these are useless and totally inaccurate. Even better an infrared temperature gun. Size of tank. What UVB have you got, make, type, What are you using as heat/basking lamp, make, type. How do you control them. How close can he get to uvb and basking lamp and where are they in tank. What hides have you got and where are they. This will do for a start and then we can progress from there. If you can post a picture of your setup it would be useful, but not essential. Basking spot should be between 120F and 130F Ambient temp at warm end 95 to 100 Ambient temp at cool end low 80's Night temps should be at least 65 to 70F If your ambient room temp drops below 65F at night then maybe an additional CHE may be needed to get correct temp. Ok, this is what they should be, but we need to know exactly what you have. I would also put the lighting etc on a timer so they operate at regular times rather than you switching them on/off, they get used to it better. The more accurate info you give us the better we can help. I know the popular setups over there are aquarium type glass tanks, here in the UK we use wooden viv's with sliding front doors, due to our climate these are easier to maintain the correct temps etc. I put an additional heat mat, fixed to the back wall, to help the night temps. My uro sometimes doesn't get up till midday this cold weather. Here's a pic of my setup, Spike's viv
WOW! My set up is not quite that nice! He is beautiful! Ok-so my set up....he is in a glass aquarium. He has two hides-one rock and one of those wood pieces they can go under. He doesnt really seem to live to go over there much. The temperature is mid 80s on this side. The warm side is mid 90s. And he has a basking spot on a piece of slate-that is about 115. (I had it warmer-but he was staying on it and panting-so I was afraid I was over heating him-have you ever seen your do this open mouth panting?!) I use the PowerSun UVB light and a basking light. He is in sand now-but someone told me that he is small enough (6 inches) that he should be on reptile carpet-is this true? As for food-I know he needs to settle-but not a huge appetite right now. The night time really worried me-my house doesnt get any below 68...so I turned off all the lights for night-but honestly he was SO cold and stiff this morning-and it was about 70. Is it normal for them to look like that? Also, some literature says to soak them-like my tortoises-is this true? Sorry for all the question-I just really want to be a good mom!
Hi, First off, you are being a good Mom by asking questions :lol: Your setup sounds OK but what are you measuring the temps with, I suspect the readings you are not accurate. What is the size of tank? I have never seen mine "pant" even when he's directly under the heat lamp. The Powersun is a good lamp for both UVB and heat. The sand should be Ok. Try and make sure his food doesn't get full of sand, a raised feeding platform would help there. Sometimes they do take a while to wake up. Your night house temps seem ok as well. For a uro 70F is fairly cool, when you think normal temps are well over 100F, but Ok for night temps. It could be stress of new home and thats why he's not coming out to bask. I know this may be difficult, as he's not eating much, I would take a fecal sample to vet and have it tested for parasites etc. as soon as possible. Do not soak in water this can and will cause resparitory problems, they are desert animals and never see water. Give him a little more time to settle, and leave him to decide when he comes out. The light/heat should be on for 12 hrs a day, 14 in summer. My light/heat goes on at 7.30am and he's usually up and about by 8am but sometimes it can be as late as midday.
Thank you! His tank is 20 gallons. He's pretty small still-he has a ton of room in it! Im glad you told me not to soak-because it didnt seem right-coming from the desert-but people were telling me that if their skin got sort of wrinkled on their sides, they needed to be soaked! Ok-so I wont do that! He seemed to do better last night-he just finds a spot-digs a little-and goes to sleep. He is a late riser too! So the sand is ok-he seems to be getting it suck around his nose a lot-should I be at all worried about a respitory problem with that happening? Last question-sorry-I have not been handling him-wanted to let him get settled and little more comfortable..at what point do you think its ok to start holding him? Thanks!
When did you get him if its been a week or two i think it may ok to start a limited handling my uro was very skiddish when i first held her so i use little handling now and as i have her longer i holder for longer periods. With the sand id say that might be a worry but thats my suggestion. i use millet which is part of thier diet so if she eats it she can easily digest it. Hope this helps and dont worry you a very good mother i was the same way
Handling should be kept to a minimum ... only for Tank Cleaning and vet visits ... Uro's are a "observation" pet. If your Uro is under 7" in total length, they should be on Papertowels, newspaper or butcher paper... after that, washed & sifted Playsand, millet seeds or my favorite Pool Filter Sand. Also, you need to invest in a bigger enclosure ... minimum 48" x 24" x 24" .. i know that seems really big for your little Uro, but you need to have enough length to achieve the correct temperature gradients throughout the enclosure. Look on Craigslist, there are some good deals on there sometimes. Good Luck and post some pics :lol:
Congrats on your new Uro!!! What type of thermometer are you using to measure the basking temps? If the thermometer is not a digital one then you are probably getting very inacurate readings - the temps could actually be a lot higher than you think. In a tank as small as a 20long, this is extremely dangerous. If you dont have a digital thermometer - you can buy one at walmart, home depot, petco etc - you want a kind with a probe. The probe should be securely taped onto the basking spot - and you should also move it around to "spot check" other temps. Do not try to alter the temps at all until you are getting acurate readings as you may over heat your Uro. You will probably find that you need a larger tank - the smallest tank that you should start a Uro in is a 40 breeder or larger. The reason for this is their extremely high basking needs, and their high activity level. You may not be seeing the activity now - but when your Uro settles in your will see that they are CRAZY. and will use every inch of the space they have - no matter how large. Since you have an egyptian, these guys grow faster than a lot of Uro species and get MUCH larger. Bruno has an egyptian - talk to him about size/growth rates etc. But regardless - in order to safely achieve the proper basking temps and allow your uro some "stretching" room - you should really get him into a larger tank...and also start thinking about his permanant tank when he is an adult. You mentioned he wasnt eating much - this is normal since he is settling in, and his temps etc may not be correct yet. However, what are you offering as diet currently?
Ok-so after reading more of what everyone wrote-I went and got him a 40 gallon tank today. I put carpet in it and slate. He has about 3 hides and a nice basking area! And he is running and climbing on everything! I will go and get a better thermometer-what is a good wattage to have for bulbs in a 40 gallon? What do you feed yours? Everyone is giving me different advice on what to feed-and when I look at all the care sheets-there are SO many options-I dont know where to begin...but so far-he does seem to like romaine or kale or sweet potatoes!?
So, I gave in and went a bought Hannibal a 40 gallon tank today. I put carpet in it because the sand was a mess and ALL over him! He has plenty of hides and a slate basking area. I am still working on the right temps though! He seems to really love it too-running around and climbing on everything!! What does yours like to eat-Im trying things right now-and there seem to be SO many choices..whats best!?
Hannibal got a new 40 gallon tank today with carpet!! He seems really happy! Your Uros homes are amazing-I hope to have that some day soon! Pictures to come!!
Hi, I'm so glad you got the bigger tank, will be much easier to get the correct temps and as you have said he's running all over and will love the extra space You do realize when he gets to adult he will need a cage with a floor space of 6ftx2ft. Egyptian's do grow fast, check out my post Spike my egyptian Make sure you get, if you haven't already, a digital thermometer with probe and use as MimC says. A good staple diet should consist of, endives, escarole, dandelion leaves, mustard greens, turnip greens....collard greens as rotational food with bok choy, grated carrot. A little soft fruit may be offered as well but as a treat. Variety is the answer, just like us humans A small pot of finch seed may also be left in tank so he can help himself. Just read your other post Romaine has very little nutritional value but good water content. Would advise you to stop using Kale, this is very high in oxylates which prevents calcium being absorbed. Not sure about sweet potato's, others will tell you better about that.
He really does love the space-and I made him cool hides with slate-he thinks that is great! The tank is about 3 ft long-but yest I do know he will be getting a bigger enclosure. I used to have a 5 foot iguana-so I will set up something like what she had. Thanks for the info on the diet-I will make a trip to the grocery store then! Question-some people tell me that Uros are "observation" animals and not to handle him unless I am cleaning-is this true? do you handle yours? The place I got mine said he was handled all the time! Just dont want to upset him.
Hi Hannibal, Mine does not like being handled, he's very skittish, yet will come and feed off my hand, try to pick him up and he goes crazy round tank. Generally speaking handling should be kept to a minimum but it does vary between lizards. If you pick him up and he lays still in your hand and flattens his body, this is usually a sign of stress, not a sign that he likes it. Just see how he reacts there are no hard and fast rules on this. Egyptian's are more shy than say mail's or ornates. Regards shedding, this could take up to a month or more, they shed in stages with the tail being the last and sometimes takes ages. Just leave him to do it in his own time, there is no need to interfer. DO NOT try to pull any loose skin off him, unless it sticks to the toes, then using cotton buds or similar and warm water, try and loosen it then dry off completely. He probably wont like this but may be needed to avoid blood restriction/circulation in toes which could result him loosing toes. This is rare so dont worry too much.
They are generally considered a 'look at" pet. Some species, and some individuals are more tolerant of handling - but overall they prefer to be left alone. In addition to the veggies that Bruno suggested, you can also get some Mazuri Tortoise pellets and crumble/sprinkle them on top of the salad, you can also offer a dish of rep-cal iguna pellets, pretty bird finch pellets, white millet, and 10-bean soup mix (minus the kidney beans). The soup mix should be coarsely ground with a coffee grinder. For excellent care info, including diet check out www.deerfernfarms.com - their care sheet is the best!
