Really want to pick one of these up for my Son. Anyone know if I can expect to find some at the Expo next week in Mississauga?? If so, any idea on what I can expect to pay. I know these things can't be exact, so an approximate or "Ballpark Figure" would be great. Thanks much. BBF
I'm not sure what you can expect, all expo's are different. And the price depends on who you get it from and what color/morph it is. If you want a simple, not so colorful morph it can be from $25-$50. Or for a nice pattern and or color it can be up to $200. Generally they cost between $60-$100 for nice morphs and a decent crestie. Good luck! You have the setup prepared? It would be a good idea to get everyhting ready before it comes
Thanks for the reply Jeff. No, I do not have the setup done yet. I do have the cage ready, but I did not get the other things for inside the cage (substrate, water dish etc) due to the fact that the guy at the Pet Store was very honest (a trait not found too often these days), and he told me that I can get everything I had in my cart for much cheaper at the Expo. For example, I had a piece of driftwood for the crestie to climb on...it was priced at $35. I was told I could expect to pick up the same thing at the Expo for about half that price. Plus he told me that it would not harm the crestie (or whatever gecko I end up getting) to stay in the container I'm given at the expo to keep him in there for an hour or so, until I get the cage set up. Does this sound right to you?? While I'm at it....anyone want to give me some pointers as to what I NEED to have, what extras I could have etc. Also, something else that I did buy, it's a kind of rock looking thing, where you put the crickets in, put some food in there so they are gut fed, pull a plug out of the side, then the crickets will crawl out. Is this a good thing to put in the cage?? Its not a big deal, it was on sale, so if I don't use it I won't be upset about it. Thanks. BBF
One thing you need to be aware of is temp. Tempurature is most important for the crested geckos. If the temp gets above 80F the geckos start to stress out, then above 85F they will die. You have to be most careful with babies or juvies because heat stress is there #1 killer. You should set up the heat lamp if one is even needed and test the temps in your tank way before you get the gecko. Heres a care sheet for you, it should cover alot of info you need. http://www.pangeareptile.com/id52.htm that seems to be a very good care sheet. The only thing I would adjust about it is the humidity, I would mist the tank about 2 times a day. As for the cricket rock, its kinda a waste. I would just get a tuppaware container like 12 in. x 10 in. and keep the crickets in there. Then just take out what you need. If you need anything else just ask.
I hope this isn't a stupid question...but how many crickets should you buy at a time...and what do you need to put in there holding place to keep them alive...i.e. water or whatnot. Actually, I know there are tons of care sheets out there for all types of lizards etc, but what about guides such as "An Idiots Guide" on what needs to be done for questions like the above. A catch all if you will. Thanks. BBF
Juvenile and adult crested geckos should be offered appropriate size insects twice weekly. I would say max. 10 per feeding.. You can order bulk crickets that come with 500 or 1000 fro 10-15$ and you could keep them in a decent size tupperware container.. and they need a water dish with like cotton or sponge in it with the water soaked into that so they dont drownd. You can feed them any type of vegtables i think.. but you should gutload them also. You should pick up T-Rex crested gecko diet too, and mix that in with the baby food that they need. Dont know if this helped at all, but if youd like ill look for some care sheets on crested geckos for you and how to take care of crickets if you want a better explanation. Or you could search on google yourself.
BBF, No quetion is stupid The rock thing you have I personally feel is a waste of money, especially for crested geckos. Most will hang out at an area above ground then pounce on prey in order to ambush it, the rock doesn't seem...useful to me. The expos are cheaper, just hope they have everything. If not, a gecko can live temporarily in a small cage with paper towel and a few hides. Only temporary though. You should be able to find everything :wink: Here's my caresheet if your interested, located under care sheets at this site: http://www.reptilerooms.com/Sections+index...-94-page-1.html Also, juvies will consume more crickets, but be sure not to just dump them in there. Give a couple, and after a awhile add a few more if those are eaten. Thje amount they eat depends on the crickets size, and the gecko itself. I've never had to offer more than 6 crickets a night that are appropirately sized, average of 3-7 a night to juvies. The crickets should be no larger then the width of the mouth. Crested gecko diet is not essential but very good and useful. Especially if you run out of crickets and need a backup source of food. Feed it whenever you wish, but remember babies require and will more readily consume a higher % of insects. Adults will be less inclined to hunt, especially females. You need a gutload for the crickets, otherwise they will be the equivalent to the gecko eating...carboard. I feed the crickets that I offer to each herp something beneficial to that lizard species. For example, my crested gecko I offer banana, mango, peach, or apple for a food and water source to the crickets, as well as crested gecko diet. About 85-90% of the dry cricket diet should be the cricket gutload from http://cricketfood.com . For a single crestie a 1-5lb bag will prolly last you 2-4 months. The crickets will eat it until they nearly explode, and I have had a couple of exploders they get so full from it. It's the best gutlaod around, I I think anyone feeding crickets should use it. It should be the main diet for the crix. I used to buy about 25-40 crickets when my crestie was young, now its only about 10-20 a week. If the gecko is younger than 10 months, expect to buy about 30 a week ish. Dont foget the gutload! Keeping crickets is a cinch, all you need is a kritter keeper, gutload, a water source, and a hide (tiolet paper roll, egg flat, crumbled paper). You can buy them in bulk as Michael said, but you'll probably have too large of crickets by the time you get close to using them all. If you order in bulk, buy only about 100 at a time. If you keep crickets at lower temps (67-72) they will grow more slowly than high temps (75-82). You need a screen top, 20 gallon tall enclosure for a 6+ month old (otherwise a 10 gallon), spray bottle, water dish, silk (or live) plants, vertical and horizontal cimbing surfaces and perches, food, and a substrate (can be as simple as paper towel). Only use a heat lamp of your temps get below 70*F during the day, and below 60 at night. Use a red bulb preferably. Partially true :wink: are you sure they have statistics for that sorta thing?
I dont know, I have just heard that that can be a major cause for death in very young cresties. Just wanted to stress the importance of tempurature.
jeff i was wondering do you think i could use a black light as a 24 hour heat source because it is cold right now around my area. If the black light isnt good, what type of red bulb do you prefer to be on 24 hours?
Black bulbs I wouldn't use, I have not persoanlly used them but from what I hear they produce UVB and/or some kind of ray that affects the eyes. I'm not 100% sure, maybe someone else can touch up on that. However red bulbs are excellent, pet sotres carry them, a low wattage would be your best bet. I wonder if the red bulbs they sell at hardware stores are teh same things as pet store red bulbs... Good idea
Wow, thanks for all the great replies folks....very very much appreciated. What a friendly community you guys have here. I'm hoping like heck they'll have some cresties at the Expo. One question about the "red light". Should I put it right on top of the screen of the cage, or suspend it above. Here is a pic of the cage I have for the little fella. http://www.exo-terra.com/products/glass_terrariums_i.html Hopefully this is a good cage for him.
That is an awsome tank. Perfect for a crestie. I would get a digital thermometer to test the temps out in the tank. You might not need a red heat bulb. Be careful which red heat bulb you get. Some are way brighter than others. I use this kind ESU Reptile Red Heat Basking Lamps, heres a link to what the box looks like. http://shop.petsmart.com/product/253437430...24441776689.htm these red heat lamps are perfect as they barely give off any light.
Yep looks good to me Remember, no need to use a red light unless the temp get below 70 ish during the day or 60 ish during the night :wink: otherwise they are fine. Low wattage is the best if you do get a buld, and make sure you get a tempgun or a digital thermometer with a probe (as nuggular said) to measure heat. Don't let it get above the low 8's.
Where would I be able to get one of these digital thermometers?? Also....perhaps a small problem I'm going to have. My son still likes to sleep with a light on...I've been trying to get him to get out of it, but I've got him down to a night light. Would this be to much light for a lizard at night time?? If so, I'll keep the crestie elsewhere and try to use it as incentive for my young fella to turn out his light at night!
Radio shack has them cheap, maybe $6-$10. Also hardware stores like that, any outdoor/indoor thermometer with a probe works. The wont be much of a problem, depends on how much light there is really. That will have to be a factor when the gecko gets there. Look at him when the night light is on, his pupils should look very large and almost as big as teh eye. Round looking. And if he is active with that, the night light is fine. However if the gecko seems to not be active, and his pupil is noticably smaller and more vertical shape to it, its too bright. Kinda get teh idea? sorta hard to explain...
