Budget enclosure #2 is finished...PICS!!

I purchased a buffet cabinet off craigslist for $30 to use as a pedestal for my python enclosure (budget enclosure #1). I was storing all the reptile goodies in there (cleaning supplies, etc) but there was a ton of wasted space. So I decided to turn it into an enclosure for the next snake I purchase.

Started with this...


Pulled the doors off and removed the center post...


Built a frame for the door using 0.5" x 3.5" kiln-dried Whitewood...


Stained and sealed the frame, then removed the thin pressboard backing off the cabinet...


Replaced the back with a pre-laminated waterproof siding material, removed the shelf, lined the bottom with rubber mating and trimmed it off with urethane molding (tacked down with 18ga brad nails)...


1/4" Lexan (clear polycarbonate) was used for the "window" and was mounted to the frame using 5/16 stainless bolts with rubber grommets, and anchored on opposite end with brass acorn nuts...


Two handles mounted on top of frame for easy removal...


The door is held in place by four spring-loaded window latches with 5/8" tongue...


Installed three 2.75" under-cabinet puck lights...


Two 3.5" x 11" vents were installed vertically (one on each side)...


The finished product...


Total floor space is roughly 8 sqft with 25" of vertical space.

Comments welcome.

 

Looks great man! So, when do we get to see pictures of it filled with a snake? =)

 

Maybe this weekend...I'm going to look at a Dumerils boa this guy wants to sell, but I need to get something by way of basking heat first. Not sure if I want to go with another Pro Heat panel, or just do Flexwatt tape...but the enclosure stayed at a constant 83-degrees just with the three mini halogens (in 76-degree ambient room temp). If I do a panel, I'm going to have to relocate one of the lights (or remove it).

 

A few concerns:
Are the lights accessible to the snake? If so, how hot do they get? The snake absolutely will burn itself, if the lights get hot to the touch. It will be the first thing it does.
There appears to be some cord looped near the back where the lights are installed. If a snake were to crawl through those loops, would it get stuck? What would happen to the cord if it forced its way through?
How will you disinfect this cage when the snake paints the interior with poop?

(Assume all of the above will happen, because it will).
Snakes are extremely good at finding ways to injure themselves.

 

I thought about that, although they're a full 25" above the floor so the snake would have to stand straight up and stick its nose to the glass (the only part that gets hot). If you think that's a possibility I can install fire sprinkler head guards to keep the snake from actually coming into contact with the glass. This should work nicely...

Not possible...unless I'm putting a garter snake in there. The photo may be deceptive...you cant even get two fingers through that loop, its smaller than it looks and it cannot be made bigger without a crowbar.

Probably the same way you disinfect your cages. But the paper towels catch most of the excrement...so far I've had no "painters" out of the snakes I own.

 

Nice! I like the house siding that looks like fake wood? What is that? How sturdy is it? Did you put any type of bracketing material behind it? I like the idea! I've used melemine before... but it's so darn heavy!

 

i think you will find the snake wrapped around those lights, hanging from them. if you think those guards are sufficient to deal with that, then use those. Otherwise, you may want to consider installing some sort of mesh barrier to block off the entire fixture area, so the snake can't get near the lights or cords.

Snakes are strong, and can climb surprising things. http://www.bluebirdnut.com/images/BlackSnake-Terry.jpg

 

Agreed...but physics comes into play as well. My Burmese is strong as hell, but the mass of her body has to have a certain amount of surface area to attach to or it will not support her weight...no matter how hard she constricts. Those lights are 2.5" across, 1.5" in depth and smooth as a baby's bottom...not enough surface area to support the weight of an adult constrictor snake...it will slip right off. That door knob in the photo you linked to is jutting out horizontally...take the deadbolt lock thats above it, turn it to where its facing downward and see if a 5' constrictor can hang on. I doubt it. Now once I add the guards, that will be a nice hanging surface unfortunately.

Hey, if the snake proves me wrong I will be the first to admit it...I will even post photos! However, unless I purchase a snake that's been bitten by a radioactive spider, I dont think its gonna be crawling on the ceiling of this enclosure!!

Thanks for your input, gave me some things to consider.

.

 

No problem--it's a bit hard to see dimensions, and where all the 'hand holds' are from just the photos, of course.
The snake in the pic I linked isn't hanging from the doorknob, though--his tail is just wrapped around it loosely. He's clinging to the vertical molding of the door frame.
You may find that the vent on the side of the cage provides enough of a hold for the snake to use it to climb. (Or, it may be fine--just something to keep a very close eye on).

 

Yeah, I'm definitely gonna add the sprinkler guards. Its gonna ugly-fy the interior, but oh well...better than a burnt snake.

 

Looking great!!! How about small strainer for each light? Just take the handles off,cheap and maybe perfect for those small round lights.

 

That came out great. Love the albino python .

Sadly they are now illegal in my area but love them.

How do you like the Pro Heat panel ? Can you simply set temp to what you want?

 

Years ago there was a company which made great cages, Precision caging. They

What watts are your lights?

I ask as years ago there was a company called Precision caging which made great cages and recall the guy who made them only suggested bulb guards if bubls over 25 watts .
He made the cages with bulbs inside.

 

Halogens tend to get pretty hot, though, I think the guards will probably do the trick if the snake can't get up there to hang off of anything.

 

Nice idea, nova...I will have to try that!!

 

20 Watts each. Here's the kit...



The bulbs are not exposed, but glass cover gets HOT!! Dont know if they make "bulb guards" to fit this application (I've seen them on portable work lights)...but the sprinker head cover would be almost the same thing I'd imagine...except they're $20 a piece!! OUCH

 

$20....yikes. You would have to change the topic title..ha!

 

No shit, right? I'm gonna try your strainer idea, as long as it doesn't diffuse the light too much I'm gonna go with those. I will post pics (and give you credit, of course ).

Reptile supplies from Bed, Bath & Beyond!!

 

Big props to you, supernova, for the strainer idea!!

OK, Here are the final additions...

4.5" in-sink strainers for heat shields (no modification necessary, just drilled em on) .



2 feet of 11" Flexwatt heat tape attached underneath the enclosure with aluminum tape...



and controlled by a Hydrofarm thermostat



The new occupant enjoying his new digs!!

 

That's awesome! I love when you just kind of go to Home Depot or Lowes and look around and figure out what you could use to make an awesome enclosure!